Chypre Rouge, the newest Serge Lutens creation, has been widely talked about on perfume blogs this week, and it’s finally my turn to put in my two cents. I’m afraid it is in fact going to be just two cents as I struggle to say much about it. First, a personal little note to Serge Lutens. Serge, I love you and all of your unrivaled creations. My heart aches as I write this for deep is my devotion to you, and I’m sad to say you let me down. Nevertheless, I will love you forever.
Don’t get me wrong. The scent is not devastatingly appaling or anything. It’s just that I was expecting much more. I’m not sure what exactly but with a name of Chypre Rouge, how can one not? It’s just… not rocking my world. The best part is the top notes – the birch woodiness of Chene, the slight chocolate note of Borneo, a tad of spiciness of Arabie plus immortelle reminiscent of that in Dior Eau Noire. Sounds perfect, doesn’t it? Oh, it would be if this stage lasted longer, and if these notes were further accentuated. It’s gone before you know it, and what I’m left with is syrupy sweetness. When I was a kid, we used to make our own candy just by pouring some water into a spoon and adding some sugar and then holding the whole thing above the stove till it bubbled and got all syrupy. We’d then pour the mixture into several round shapes and insert a match into each to be later used as a holder. Homemade suckers, I guess that’s how I’d call it (“petushki” is what we called them). To stay on topic, that’s the type of syrupy sweetness I’m getting from Chypre Rouge. It’s by no means cloying or toothache inducing, yet it seems to dominate the composition, and I’d rather it didn’t. Sounds like both Victoria and Marina got the anise/licorice note similar to that in Caron Aimez Moi or Lolita Lempicka. I’m happy (I guess) to say I get none. I also don’t get much nuttiness or spiciness. Caramelized pecans is said to be one of the notes, and my nose gets none of that. There is just a hint of oakmoss that’s sort of hanging in there waiting to be noticed. Ah, as I said, my heart aches as I write all this. I so wished to be enraptured! I do think Chypre Rouge might work better in colder weather, so I’m not going to dismiss it just yet. My heart stays true to Serge.
Chypre Rouge is supposed to be available at Aedes mid-August and other U.S. retailers in September.
Image source: www.senteursdailleurs.com
20 comments July 26th, 2006