Perfume Review: Orris by Andy Tauer
July 25th, 2006
Orris is the latest creation by a Swiss perfumer, Andy Tauer. Andy his been talking about it on his blog, and that’s where you can also find the main notes which are ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, agarwood, frankincense, rose, orris, pepper, cinnamon, citrus. A fascinating combination that promises to impress and fulfils on it.
Upon first application, it’s a very dry and woody citrus that quickly acquires a smoky quality. Apart from the smokiness, my nose also detects some leather (which is birchtar in this case). As the scent settles, orris and rose become more evident (my favorite part). The floral blend gets accentuated by just a hint of vetiver. The orris is soft and just a tad powdery. The rose is subtle. With the drydown approaching, most of the smokiness is replaced by that sweet-sour effect of agarwood and a hint of frankincense. I wouldn’t call it a spicy scent, although it is slightly peppery. If you’re a lover of iris scents, this one is a must try. However, be prepared to find your way to the iris in it – it’s soberly guarded by the woods and other enigmatic substances. I quite like it myself but I must confess it wasn’t a love at first sniff. The more I smell it, the more I appreciate its complexity and incomparable charm.
To find out more about the scent, please check Tauer Perfumes.
Image source: www.herbroots.com
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25 Comments
1. Imelda | July 25th, 2006 at 11:58 pm
I think you’re mistaken, Andy will not be selling Orris at all.
Andy Says:
July 18th, 2006 at 9:00 pm
Dear Nina
What shall I say… I am so sorry for you! Thank you for your compliments, though. I hope you are not angry now that you realized this is not for sales….
It makes just the more precious, doesn’t it?
2. Victoria | July 25th, 2006 at 11:59 pm
I smelled it recently on a friend who got a sample from Andy, and the first thing I thought was rose on an ambery base, rather than iris. However, on the blotter, iris dominated the heart.
3. dinazad | July 26th, 2006 at 2:32 am
Either it’s my skin or something bordering on iris anosmia – iris scents generally strike me as cosmically boring. Not Orris, though – I too belong to the lucky few who got a sample – after an opening I can only compare to cold leather (leather jacket on an icy day?), I get a cool, floral breeze, and then a gentle iris (!) note which stays with me well into the next day. Gorgeous! I do wish Andy would change his mind and market this after all….
4. Nina | July 26th, 2006 at 4:50 am
This was definitely love at first-drydown for me – the initial burst of leather didn’t promise much to me, but the drydown simply blew my mind. I really hope Andy changes his mind about Orris – I’ve been staring at what’s left in my sample vial with anguish!
5. Elle | July 26th, 2006 at 5:39 am
Wonderful review! I’m usually sent into a state of grief over reviews of gorgeous scents due to my unfortunately tight budget, but for this one I’m in anguish over Andy’s lack of plans to market it. He’s such a nice man – why torture his fans w/ something they can’t have more of? Surely he’ll recant.
6. Judith | July 26th, 2006 at 6:04 am
I found this scent beautiful and quite complex–I discover new things every time I wear it! I will add my voice to those clamoring for its general release, so I could keep discovering them!:) Thanks for your wonderful review!
7. March | July 26th, 2006 at 6:47 am
OH, I love this one. ISM smells wretched on me; this is very much orris, with woods and incense, warmer than Hiris but with its same … clarity? I am going to do a post at some point, with a vigorous whine that he consider releasing it. I think it’s a complicated formula (aren’t they all, though?) and quite expensive.
8. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:05 am
Imelda, thank you for pointing this out! I’m not sure how I missed it but, obviously, I did.
9. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:05 am
V., it’s more iris on my skin than rose. I’ll have to try it on the blotter for comparison.
10. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:06 am
Dinazad, very nice to see you here! Yes, it’s a very gentle iris. We’ll have to write a petition to Andy.
11. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:06 am
Nina, I love the drydown but I also love the middle stage where the iris is more prominent.
12. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:07 am
Elle, I think you’ll like it. We should definitely write a petition.
13. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:07 am
Thanks, Judith! It’s definitely complex, and we don’t even know all the notes, so it’s fun to try to guess them.
14. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:09 am
March, ISM doesn’t do it for me either. I like my iris complex and mixed with other stuff. This one definitely falls into that category.
15. Marina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:25 am
I still haven’t received my sample, waaah! It sounds wonderful, just like something I’d love. *whines*
16. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 8:26 am
Marina, I think you will actually love it. Consider yourself warned.
17. The Scented Salamander | July 26th, 2006 at 8:58 am
Just wanted to point out that this is a trial version, not a definitive version. Andy calls it his “trial orris”.
Illuminating point about the agarwood. It’s very strong on my skin.
18. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 9:06 am
Helene, my understanding was that it was the final version. That’s what I read on his blog. I guess I’ll have to ask him.
19. The Scented Salamander | July 26th, 2006 at 9:43 am
I thought so too, more or less, but when I said I was going to review it he said it was a trial. I think also he suggested we let him know what we think of it on his blog, if possible.
20. The Scented Salamander | July 26th, 2006 at 9:47 am
I saw Imelda quoted Andy, so here’s an exerpt of his email:
(…) It will be my pleasure to send you a sample of my orris trial and I hope you
will like this fragrance
Yours
Andy
21. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 9:48 am
Thanks, Helene! I’ll ask him about it.
22. Christina H. | July 26th, 2006 at 2:59 pm
This sounds so wonderful! I can’t wait for it to come out! Thank you for the lovely review Ina!
23. Christina H. | July 26th, 2006 at 3:01 pm
Oops! Just read that it won’t be released.That’s some sad news. And I got all worked up to try it! Argh!
24. Ina | July 26th, 2006 at 3:11 pm
Christina, thank you! I sure hope Andy changes his mind.
25. Mike | January 29th, 2007 at 4:48 pm
Nice stuff