Perfume Review: Paestum Rose by Eau D’Italie

July 23rd, 2006

Paestum RosePaestum Rose was mentioned briefly in my earlier post, and, like I said, it didn’t take long before I smelled it. Let me tell you up front: the best part about this scent is the drydown. It starts out rather pungent, with a blast of dry, austere pepper and resins, and just a hint of myrrh that sort of keeps it from going too wild on the incense/spices. Black currant buds note is present, too, and it reminds me of that tacky, harsh sensation in your mouth when you eat a fruit that’s not ripe. In my case, it brings back memories of eating hard, green blackcurrants off the bushes (don’t ask why but it was my favorite summer pastime). It takes a good 10-15 minutes for all of this to calm down before the florals become apparent. I get just a hint of osmanthus on a soft musky base. After about another 5-10 minutes, the most glorious thing happens: the rose enters the composition accompanied by cedar and wenge (very similar to Donna Karan’s Wenge). “Dusky incense” is how it’s described on Aedes which is right on, except I’d probably call it a dusky rose incense. Paestum Rose is a very unique rendition of Rose, and I can see it not appealing to those who prefer their rose light and crispy. This is a dark, mysterious, almost gothic rose.

Paestum Rose features the notese of black and pink pepper, coriander, black currant buds, myrrh, patchouli, white musk, exotic woods (cedar and wenge), Turkish rose.

P.S. I wore it today after applying Donna Karan Wenge lotion, and the whole effect was simply mesmerizing.

Entry Filed under: Uncategorized

16 Comments

  • 1. Elle  |  July 24th, 2006 at 5:35 am

    No, no…trying to turn up volume of music I’m playing….anything to block out those final, killing words, “dark, mysterious, almost gothic rose.” Those are the sort of words that make my cc levitate out of my wallet and float over to the computer where the keys automatically type out an order to Aedes. I need to try to shift focus to wonder about the allure of eating hard green black currants…

  • 2. March  |  July 24th, 2006 at 6:09 am

    Hahahaha — sticking this in the candy on Wednesday. I don’t even particularly LIKE rose as a dominant note, and this one is a winner. That wenge/rose/myrrh drydown is mesmerizing, isn’t it? The opening didn’t bother me so much — the rose is dark, and I got a lot of pepper, and not much blackcurrant, which suited me fine.

  • 3. Marina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 7:30 am

    That Wenge thing, I got that too, that’s what took this scent from “nice” to “I might actually have to buy this” :-)

  • 4. Sara  |  July 24th, 2006 at 7:34 am

    dusky rose incense??!!?? you enabler you :-)

    how does it compare to OJ Ta’if, SL Rose de Nuit, or one of the Montale rose/oud combinations??

    I can’t wait to give this one a try!

  • 5. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 8:19 am

    Elle, do NOT make any unsniffed purchases! Did you hear me? DO NOT.

  • 6. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 8:19 am

    Yes, March, right on! ;)

  • 7. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 8:20 am

    Marina, do NOT buy this YET.

  • 8. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 8:21 am

    Sara, it has nothing in common with Ta’if as far as the effect. Funny you mentioned Rose de Nuit because just last night I thought how it’s vaguely reminiscent of Guerlain Rose Barbare which to my nose is along the same lines as Rose de Nuit. I think you’ll like this.

  • 9. Kelley  |  July 24th, 2006 at 9:47 am

    But, could a guy get away with this? I am completely addicted to Creed’s Fleurs de Bulgarie, and don’t care what anyone thinks when I wear it. But, it’s a glorious rose/ambergris scent. It’s not at all dark. PR sounds dark and mysterious.

  • 10. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 9:50 am

    Kelley, absolutely! it’s not along the lines of Fleurs de Bulgarie but it’s totally wearable for both men and women. Plus, I’m a big proponent of genderless perfumes. ;)

  • 11. sariah  |  July 24th, 2006 at 11:05 am

    Hello Ina – I also got the wengee similarity, as well as YSL Nu. I’m generally not a rose fan, but this is my favorite rose scent to date – it is a very woody, slightly spicy rose. I’m thinking deep dark coppery pink roses in a dry hot climate (if roses grow there?). The start reminds me a lot of YSL NU – the dry woodyness of it. As it dries down, when the rose becomes more prominent than the woods, this is where I started to lose interest.

  • 12. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 11:07 am

    Hi, Sariah! Yes, I can see the similarity to YSL Nu, in top notes. Funny, the drydown is where I start to gain interest here. ;)

  • 13. Victoria  |  July 24th, 2006 at 12:15 pm

    I am enjoying Paestum Rose more and more, but I have to say that the packaging is very unattractive. It looks like a cheap hairspray container.

  • 14. Ina  |  July 24th, 2006 at 12:21 pm

    Vika, I agree about the packaging! I was a bit underwhelmed myself.

  • 15. Perfume Posse » Blo&hellip  |  July 26th, 2006 at 6:38 am

    [...] … where was I? Oh, yeah. Candy. How about … this one? Paestum Rose by Eau d’Italie. I am not a lover of rose soliflores, preferring that they share the stage with some other note, like Rosine’s sea-salt Ecume. Here, cribbing from Aedes: “The silky petals of rose are touched with the sweetness of myrrh and the resinous warmth of black pepper, while the transparent floral nuances of osmanthus and peony contrast with the sensual darkness of cedar and wenge woods…” I can’t see how I’m going to top that, so I’ll just add that on me it’s a dark rose, spicy rather than sweet (the pepper, probably), balanced beautifully by the warm, resinous smell of myrrh and wenge. The drydown is particularly lovely. If you love rose scents, you should try this. If you don’t love rose scents, you should try this. Here’s another review over on Aromascope, after which you may be making an unsniffed purchase. [...]

  • 16. Aromascope » Perfum&hellip  |  August 21st, 2007 at 11:52 pm

    [...] the Eau d’Italie line, created by Bertrand Duchaufour who’s also the nose behind their Paestum Rose as well as L’Artisan Dzongkha, Poivre Piquant, Mechant Loup. (courtesy of Now Smell This). [...]


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