Archive for July, 2006
I realized after my mini-sniffage this past weekend that I never did get a sample of the newest scent by Kenzo - Kenzoamour, so I just had to run back to Nordstrom’s after work to remedy that. Pathetic, I know. Hey, but Nordstrom’s is only a 5 minute walk for me. So I read this description on Nordstrom’s site today, “The slow and sensuous journey of a couple through Asia, punctuated by encounters, bursts of laughter and smiles, soft sensations, pictures and perfumes brimming with life. Kenzo introduces a soft, sensual, happy fragrance with a woody, musky scent. Olfactory evocations of traveling through Asia, with memories of India, Indonesia, Japan, Burma and Thailand…. Lovely places, filled with vibrant colors and aromas. Notes: Frangipani blossoms from Bali or Borobudur, cherry blossoms from Japan, tanakha wood used decoratively in Burma by women and children, incense, Thai rice steam, vanilla of la Réunion and white tea from China”. Many questions arose in my head. First of all, why a couple? Secondly, what “soft sensations” and “perfumes brimming with life”? Needless to say, there will never be a logical answer to this, and I’m not even going to bother. What I do want to know, though, is who the heck writes this stuff? I want to meet that person.
But back to Kenzoamour. Luckily, I was able to find a more coherent description on a Russian site stating it was created by Olivier Cresp and Daphne Bugey (for their other creations, please consult the Noses page on Now Smell This). The bottle was designed by Karim Rashid, in reminiscence of creations by a famous Romanian sculptor Constantin Brancuzi. To be honest, the bottle is way more fascinating than the scent itself. No, it’s not a bad scent. On the contrary, it’s a gorgous Japanese cherry blossom and frangipani blend. The problem with that is it only lasts for about 30 seconds, and after that it’s a sort of bland white tea/vanilla mix. It’s so sweet it’s borderline cloying. On top of it, I’m getting a minty/anise note that gives the scent a little zing but just kind of stays there to the point of getting pesky. The staying power is lamentable as well. So I guess I saved me some dollars, folks. So much the better - there’re enough new releases that will seriously undermine my perfume budget this year (yes, I’m talking about you, Paprika Brasil, and you, Orris Noir).
Kenzoamour is currently available on Nordstrom’s online.
Image source: www.nordstrom.com
July 31st, 2006
Osmoz.com finally posted official notes for Chypre Rouge, the newest Serge Lutens creation. They are: thyme, pine needles, honey, beeswax, jasmine, fruit gums, patchouli, moss, amber, musk, vanilla. VERY surprised it has jasmine! I get none! So, where’s the caramelized pecan note? I so wish I got more of the pine needles-honey-moss-amber. Sigh.
July 31st, 2006
Just spotted, Badgley Mischka fragrance is now available for pre-order on Neiman Marcus online.
Image source: www.neimanmarcus.com
July 31st, 2006
This past weekend I did a mini-sniffage downtown Chicago and came home with a sample of Insolence and a blotter with Badgley Mischka. Insolence is the new creation of Maurice Roucel (the nose behind Musc Ravageur, Lolita Lempicka L, Iris Silver Mist) for Guerlain targeting the younger generation. The notes I was able to find are: violet, raspberry, iris, tonka beans, resins. I must say I was quite surprised to actually like this seemingly yet-another-boring fruity-floral. I’ll be even bolder and state that of all the fruity-florals in the past year or so, Insolence is by far the best one. What I found particularly appealing about the scent is the combination of violet, raspberry, and iris that’s done in a most gentle way, with a candied undertone. It reminds me of Guerlain’s other fragrance - Meteorites - that features the same notes of iris and violet with a touch of heliotrope for a powdery feel. Insolence is a bit more fruity but my nose detects a tad of powderiness, too. It doesn’t really go much further than the candied violet/iris blend but the overall effect is very soft and pretty. The drydown smells like a lipstick. I imagine Insolence will become quite popular amongst any age group as it is not a particularly girly scent that conjures up all things pink and frilly. Neither is it particularly insolent - the name is indeed a total mismatch. For other impressions, please read Victoria’s review and Marina’s review.
My second discovery was the new signature scent of Badgley Mischka fashion design house (whose designs I absolutely adore). It’s said to be released August 1 and be available through September 30 (why I do not know) exclusively at Neiman Marcus stores. My local Neiman’s had a tester bottle only, so a blotter is all I was able to bring home. According to Fashionsquare.com, “the Badgley Mischka signature fragrance is a rich and rare floral that evokes feeling of elegance, sophistication, luxury, and glamour. It opens with the pulpy sensation of Red Wild Berries and Fresh Picked Peach laced with Crème de Cassis. The heart of the fragrance is an enchanting bouquet of sensuous florals that smoothly blends Osmanthus flower, White Peony and Jasmine. The drydown imparts an elegant sensuality with Suede Musks and Indian Sandalwood, while the warmth of Caramel Amber and Patchouli furnish mystique”. I wasn’t sure I liked it much upon first sniff but it sort of grew on me. It is indeed a rich, caramely fruity-floral along the lines of La Prairie Silver Rain but with more pronounced osmanthus and cassis on a lush amber base. Sensual and luxurious and very fitting to Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2006 Ready To Wear Collection. I’m yet to do more skin tests but I’m afraid this scent will have to be a purchase at some point before September 30 as I find its deep, floriental effect too hard to resist for those chilly fall days.
Image source: www.cosmeticnews.com
July 30th, 2006
NOTE: it has just come to my attention that this post does NOT look as intended. Please hit the Refresh button on your browser to see the right layout. Thank you!
Marina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things and I have decided to take a break from writing reviews and instead focus on the marketing side of things, namely, perfume ads. She’s already done a highly amusing post dedicated to perfume ads here. However, so much more can be said on the subject that she came up with another idea - Perfume Ads That Make You Go… “How You Doin’!” - Hitparade of Hottest Guys in Perfume Ads (copyright Colombina), and I offered to add some hormonal balance by doing a 10 Hottest Chicks in Perfume Ads. Let’s see what we have here:
Um… what’s the rush, and why are so many people following her? I figured it must be because she’s hot! It’s as if she’s saying, “I’m so beautiful I want to run away on the beach! I’m beautiful! I’m gorgeous! Carry me away!” Call me a cynic but this just makes me gag.
“What are you looking at? I don’t have your credit card. Go home, hombre”. I know this is a totally nonsensical caption but so is the ad. The chick is hot, though.
Love in Paris. The name implies so much - romantic strolls along the Seine, gazing into each other’s eyes in cute coffee shops, kissing on top of the Eiffel Tower, perfume shops (perfume shops!!)… It’s gotta be hot! Somehow this chick is the epitome of all things boring, though.
Anorexia alert! She’s so hot she’s sweated all of her weight off.
OK, this one is a true hottie, with the knife and all. Don’t mess with her. She’s got some fruit, and she knows how to use it. Side note: this ad really does not match the perfume.
I’m not sure what went wrong here. Either the perfume threw her into utter despair or she just plain suffers from indigestion. In any case, this is clearly the opposite of hot but I threw it in here just for the kicks.
How you doin’! Huh? HUH? This is an ad for Parfum D’Hermes, folks. The one that was shamelessly reformulated into today’s Rouge. A big fat “WHY?” is all that comes to mind when I think of it, and when I look at this ad. WHY?
“I can beat this dude, and I have dinner cooking at home in a crockpot”. Hot!
This one is priceless. A phone hottie.
And this… This is true beauty. True beauty is not about being hot. She surpasses them all. And she’s not a chick.
Images from www.parfumdepub.net and www.perso.orange.fr/imagesdeparfums/
July 27th, 2006
Chypre Rouge, the newest Serge Lutens creation, has been widely talked about on perfume blogs this week, and it’s finally my turn to put in my two cents. I’m afraid it is in fact going to be just two cents as I struggle to say much about it. First, a personal little note to Serge Lutens. Serge, I love you and all of your unrivaled creations. My heart aches as I write this for deep is my devotion to you, and I’m sad to say you let me down. Nevertheless, I will love you forever.
Don’t get me wrong. The scent is not devastatingly appaling or anything. It’s just that I was expecting much more. I’m not sure what exactly but with a name of Chypre Rouge, how can one not? It’s just… not rocking my world. The best part is the top notes - the birch woodiness of Chene, the slight chocolate note of Borneo, a tad of spiciness of Arabie plus immortelle reminiscent of that in Dior Eau Noire. Sounds perfect, doesn’t it? Oh, it would be if this stage lasted longer, and if these notes were further accentuated. It’s gone before you know it, and what I’m left with is syrupy sweetness. When I was a kid, we used to make our own candy just by pouring some water into a spoon and adding some sugar and then holding the whole thing above the stove till it bubbled and got all syrupy. We’d then pour the mixture into several round shapes and insert a match into each to be later used as a holder. Homemade suckers, I guess that’s how I’d call it (”petushki” is what we called them). To stay on topic, that’s the type of syrupy sweetness I’m getting from Chypre Rouge. It’s by no means cloying or toothache inducing, yet it seems to dominate the composition, and I’d rather it didn’t. Sounds like both Victoria and Marina got the anise/licorice note similar to that in Caron Aimez Moi or Lolita Lempicka. I’m happy (I guess) to say I get none. I also don’t get much nuttiness or spiciness. Caramelized pecans is said to be one of the notes, and my nose gets none of that. There is just a hint of oakmoss that’s sort of hanging in there waiting to be noticed. Ah, as I said, my heart aches as I write all this. I so wished to be enraptured! I do think Chypre Rouge might work better in colder weather, so I’m not going to dismiss it just yet. My heart stays true to Serge.
Chypre Rouge is supposed to be available at Aedes mid-August and other U.S. retailers in September.
Image source: www.senteursdailleurs.com
July 26th, 2006
Orris is the latest creation by a Swiss perfumer, Andy Tauer. Andy his been talking about it on his blog, and that’s where you can also find the main notes which are ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, agarwood, frankincense, rose, orris, pepper, cinnamon, citrus. A fascinating combination that promises to impress and fulfils on it.
Upon first application, it’s a very dry and woody citrus that quickly acquires a smoky quality. Apart from the smokiness, my nose also detects some leather (which is birchtar in this case). As the scent settles, orris and rose become more evident (my favorite part). The floral blend gets accentuated by just a hint of vetiver. The orris is soft and just a tad powdery. The rose is subtle. With the drydown approaching, most of the smokiness is replaced by that sweet-sour effect of agarwood and a hint of frankincense. I wouldn’t call it a spicy scent, although it is slightly peppery. If you’re a lover of iris scents, this one is a must try. However, be prepared to find your way to the iris in it - it’s soberly guarded by the woods and other enigmatic substances. I quite like it myself but I must confess it wasn’t a love at first sniff. The more I smell it, the more I appreciate its complexity and incomparable charm.
To find out more about the scent, please check Tauer Perfumes.
Image source: www.herbroots.com
July 25th, 2006
“A perfume infused with sensuality, wound around the noblest of balsamic substances. A shrine to sublimate the warmth of Amber, the narcotic blur of Tuberose and the divine velvet of Rose petals. A precious nectar, evoking the splendor of the Eternal Feminine… ” (Zenadora.fr)
The notes listed on the company’s web site are elemi, rose petals, raspberry, incense, patchouli, Gaiac wood, ciste, myrrh, benzoin (tuberose and amber are not included other than in the above description). Let me start by saying Zenadora is the first signature perfume by a luxury home fragrance line. The products are said to be created by some of the greatest perfumers in France. So it’s no wonder my initial association of the scent was that of a good quality candle - it has a waxy quality, almost like someone melted a candle and made perfume out of it. I was looking for the right ajective to describe this association when Mr. Aromascope came to rescue - viscous is the word (live and learn). The wax effect is no doubt caused by the presence of balsamic resins and accentuated by raspberry that’s not tart or juicy but rather creamy-sweet. The scent is predominantly sweet and not particularly fruity or floral. The sweetness is honey-like. Because it stays so close to skin, it doesn’t seem to be overwhelming or cloying. It’s a comforting, balmy aroma. My nose doesn’t detect any incense or patchouli. Overall, I can only agree with the first part of the above marketing blurb, i.e., it’s a scent of balsamic substances - warm, sweet, cozy, almost edible. Darn that Eternal Feminine - I missed it again.
Zenadora can be purchased at Beautyhabit. For a list of retailers, please check Zenadora site.
Oh, in case you’re wondering, I do like it but I probably won’t reach for it often enough to justify a purchase. It’s one of those decant worthy scents.
Image source: www.french-brand.com
July 24th, 2006
Paestum Rose was mentioned briefly in my earlier post, and, like I said, it didn’t take long before I smelled it. Let me tell you up front: the best part about this scent is the drydown. It starts out rather pungent, with a blast of dry, austere pepper and resins, and just a hint of myrrh that sort of keeps it from going too wild on the incense/spices. Black currant buds note is present, too, and it reminds me of that tacky, harsh sensation in your mouth when you eat a fruit that’s not ripe. In my case, it brings back memories of eating hard, green blackcurrants off the bushes (don’t ask why but it was my favorite summer pastime). It takes a good 10-15 minutes for all of this to calm down before the florals become apparent. I get just a hint of osmanthus on a soft musky base. After about another 5-10 minutes, the most glorious thing happens: the rose enters the composition accompanied by cedar and wenge (very similar to Donna Karan’s Wenge). “Dusky incense” is how it’s described on Aedes which is right on, except I’d probably call it a dusky rose incense. Paestum Rose is a very unique rendition of Rose, and I can see it not appealing to those who prefer their rose light and crispy. This is a dark, mysterious, almost gothic rose.
Paestum Rose features the notese of black and pink pepper, coriander, black currant buds, myrrh, patchouli, white musk, exotic woods (cedar and wenge), Turkish rose.
P.S. I wore it today after applying Donna Karan Wenge lotion, and the whole effect was simply mesmerizing.
July 23rd, 2006
When I was looking for my next Underrated Friday pick, I wasn’t sure if Hermes Rouge would quite fit the category. I can’t ascertain if this is an underrated scent. All I know is that I never smell it on anyone around me, and it doesn’t seem to get much praise on online perfume communities. For being such an exquisite beauty as it is, I feel like it deserves more recognition. I’ve become acquainted with it just recently, mostly by spraying it on blotters in department stores. During our Chicago Sniffage, March sprayed some on her wrist, and I distinctly remember the moment when we were crossing the street, and I stopped in my tracks when I got a whiff of it. Of all the scents March had on that day, this stood out the most, leaving a most gorgeous sillage.
According to Osmoz.com, “the “Rouge Hermès” color, initially designed for leather goods (in 1934) has become a standard color in all domains. This new perfume from Hermès recaptures the rich symbolism of red (a color associated with poison, passion and seduction) and offers us its fragrance”. I can’t say I associate Rouge with passion and seduction. To me it’s an epitome of all things chic and luxurious. It demands a certain attitude, a certain poise that cannot be feigned.
Rouge features the notes of ylang ylang, rose, cedar, sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla, spices, resins, myrrh, and labdanum ciste. Rose and ylang ylang are gorgeously intertwined from top notes to the very drydown. Sandalwood and cedar serve as a backdrop, with just a hint of vanilla. There’s something here that gives the scent a certain kick, a slightly sour note that might be off-putting for many, I imagine. Perhaps it’s a mix of labdanum and spices. The overall effect is buttery, spicy, and warm. It’s slightly reminiscent of Guerlain Chamade but a bit more piquant in character.
Rouge is available at various online discount perfume sites as well as directly from the Hermes store.
Image source: www.parfumdepub.net
July 21st, 2006
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