From Russia With Love
June 29th, 2006
Marina at Perfume-Smellin’ Things sent me an e-mail about two weeks ago with a dubious subject From Russia With Love. “James Bond?” thought I in hesitation to open it. Turns out she wanted to share the love through perfume (phew!). She came up with a brilliant idea for us to review some of the Russian perfumes by Novaya Zarya. Now, I’m Russian by heritage but I didn’t grow up with Novaya Zarya (except for occasional colognes). I grew up with Dzintars all around me. So imagine my excitement when the package finally arrived. Here’s what I found in there:
Patchouli Magique: bergamot, lemon, patchouli, incense, labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla, musk. Wow, this is good! Lovely patchouli-labdanum mix with amber undertones. Nothing too complex, just very nice and wearable. Beats such patchouli scents as Les Nereides Patchouli Antigue and L’Artisan Patchouli Patch. Not a dirty, raw patchouli. Rather woody, soft.
Melody of Flowers Iris: iris, you say? I say an artifical mixture of unidentified notes. Wah! Get it off me! A rather pungent white floral of some sort. Ghastly. Try as I might, I get no iris. Neither in top nor in base notes. It’s somehow lost in this Melody of Flowers (and I’d like to know what flowers!)
Green Vetiver: vetiver, orange, mandarine, verbena, cedarwood, oakmoss, amber. This is the first time I smell vetiver combined with verbena. Quite unique! Sparkly, citrusy, slightly sweet. Not sure I could wear this. Not earth-shattering vetiver (and certainly not my favorite) but quite decent for what it’s worth. Would make a nice room fragrance.
Carnation: sharp, dirty carnation but not animalic-dirty – dirty as in dirt. I’m getting cloves, too. Spicy! Dries down to soft cloves – I don’t get much carnation any more. For a cologne, it’s unbelievably impressive. Wow! This could be another winner. Just add a few notches to the lasting power, and it’d be perfect. Well, it does kind of just sit on my skin. I guess I want my carnation with all the fixings.
Arome Musque: definitely a floral musk. I’m getting a slight similarity with Iris Poudre minus the iris. I know, I know, nothing can compare with the magnificent Iris Poudre but I swear I’m getting a similar musk note. I’m not bowled over. Maybe because I’m not a pure musk lover. Unless it’s Musc Ravageur, I don’t want to smell it.
Ambre Dore: violet petals, rose, patchouli, coriander, amber, oakmoss. Now we’re talking! I think I love this one the most. Spicy, not too heavy amber. Once again, my nose does tricks on me. This reminds me of Farnesiana, just a bit. Dries down to a soft and slightly powdery amber. Wow! If you’re looking for nice cheap amber, look no further.
Muguet: huh? Lily of the valley? What lily and what valley? If this is what lily of the valley smells like in Russia, then I’m a ballerina. Where’s my dirty laundry – this smells like cheap Soviet soap. I’m getting major nostalgia – memories of hand-washing my underwear with laundry soap. Yeah, right. No, thank you. Honestly, I wish I could say more here but words just escape me – it’s that boring.
Russian Forest: lemon and fresh woods. Believe it or not, I’ve never been in a Russian forest. But I hope it doesn’t smell like this because I get no forest here. It smells like a typical Soviet after-shave my dad used to wear (and drink on occasion – yeah, I know). The drydown is sort of soapy and musky and not very pleasant on my skin.
If any of these interest you, make sure to click on the images – they’ll take you right to the online shops.
Also, remember to check Perfume-Smellin’ Things, Scentzilla, and Perfume Posse to get their take on these perfumes.
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16 Comments
1. Marina | June 29th, 2006 at 11:20 pm
Well, almost the same impressions then, eh? And the same sad story about Russian Forest being consumed …um, internally
Except I did like iris and Carnation and did not get any Franesiana in Ambre (hrmph).
I didn’t get any LOTV in LOTV either.
2. Ina | June 29th, 2006 at 11:40 pm
Phew! OK! I’m glad I’m not alone.
I wish I could get iris in the Iris one. LOL at the Russian Forest! I like Carnation, too. It’s awesome for a cologne.
3. Elle | June 30th, 2006 at 6:10 am
Love this post and great reviews! Too bad about the Muguet. One of my favorite scent memories of Russia is buying the bunches of lily of valley they’d sell in early summer each year. And lemon in Russian Forest? What tropical forest were they hallucinating about? Patchouli Magique sounds divine and I love the idea of rea dirt in a spicy carnation scent, so that one also goes on my must buy list. I’m thinking that the Ambre Dore may be on that list as well – for the price, why not?
4. The Scented Salamander | June 30th, 2006 at 7:06 am
You make me want to try Patchouli Magique, Carnation, and Ambre Doré. I will do a review of Siberian Barber no1 later today.
5. March | June 30th, 2006 at 7:10 am
Looks like a major consensus building on the Muguet… maybe a bad bottle? Maybe it’s better consumed internally.
I loved the carnation, too.
6. Patty | June 30th, 2006 at 7:55 am
You have slandered my Iris. I’m glad I don’t get what you and March get. To me, it is just lovely and light and refreshing.
That muguet, bleah.
7. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:16 am
Elle, I have memories of buying bunches lily of the valley, too. Unfortunately, Muguet is nothing like it. I think you’ll like Ambre and Patchouli and possibly Carnation.
8. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:16 am
Helene, can’t wait to read your review of Siberian Barber 1.
9. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:17 am
March, Muguet was just vile on me. I can’t imagine anybody wanting to drink this.
10. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:17 am
Patty, I was so surprised to see that you loved it!
11. Judith | June 30th, 2006 at 8:26 am
I like the Carnation as well. But what is that weird, somewhat sour note in the opening? Doesn’t seem like dirt. . .(Or is it just me?) The amber is nice too (though not nearly as foody as Farnesiana on me); I wish it were stronger, though. . . . .
12. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:34 am
Judith, I’m not sure what note you’re getting. I definitely get something dirt-like. Wonder what that might be.
13. Katie | June 30th, 2006 at 8:46 am
I got no lemon from Russian Forest! How curious!
That poor botched iris in Iris. I still think it’s a pretty scent, though
That image of you scrubbing underpants that you put into a perfume review of all things was priceless! Muguet was boring to smell, but not so boring to read about it appears.
14. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 8:56 am
Katie, we used to have this particular kind of laundry soap in Soviet times that smelled vile, and, for some reason, everybody was thrilled to use it, including me. *shudder at the memory*
15. Victoria | June 30th, 2006 at 4:43 pm
LOL! I agree with Katie.
Muguet is indeed laundry soap. I know exactly what soap you are talking about!
16. Ina | June 30th, 2006 at 4:44 pm
Vika, I have no doubts in my mind you know what soap I’m talking about. ;D