Perfume Review: Eau de Gloire by Parfum D’Empire
Eau de Gloire is the work of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the founder of Parfum D’Empire. It was created as a perfume ode to Napoleon Bonaparte. Combining perfume and history is the main focus of his other creations as well - Ambre Russe and Eau Suave. Eau de Gloire features the notes of lemon, bergamot, rosemary, orange, neroli, lavender, tea, anise, licorice, leather, tobacco, incense, immortelle, oakmoss, cistus. It’s an intensely dry, aromatic herbal blend. It starts out with a rather citrusy mix of rosemary, orange, and lavender and just a hint of tea. As it settles, the herbal notes mellow, and the tea accord is intensified by anise, leather and tobacco. However, anise and tobacco play secondary roles. The main character is undoubtedly a melange of rosemary, tea, leather, and oakmoss giving the scent a vintage effect. I love the way immortelle is rendered here as a backdrop that holds the composition together. It’s somewhat similar to the immortelle in Annick Goutal Sables, except it’s not sweetened by vanilla. My nose doesn’t detect much incense but the overall effect is quite smoky and dusty and rather masculine in character.
Given the notes, it had to be stunning. Alas, it doesn’t sweep me off my feet. While I appreciate its masterful composition and powerful character, it doesn’t seem to captivate me enough.
Eau de Gloire is available at Aedes and Aus Liebe Zum Duft. For more retailers, check Parfum D’Empire web site.
Image source: www.aedes.com
16 comments June 27th, 2006
Today I’m wearing a cult perfume called Luctor et Emergo, created by a hip Dutch fashion house The People of the Labyrinths. It was supposedly nominated as a cult fragrance by Style.com So I asked myself, what does that mean? According to Answers.com, the definition of cult can be either: 1. “A religion or religious sect generally considered to be extremist or false, with its followers often living in an unconventional manner under the guidance of an authoritarian, charismatic leader”; 2. “Obsessive, especially faddish, devotion to or veneration for a person, principle, or thing”, or 3. “An exclusive group of persons sharing an esoteric, usually artistic or intellectual interest”. I don’t know about you but I much prefer the third definition, although, in reality, I probably fall somewhere in between the second and the third.
Thé et Pain d’Épices (Tea and Gingerbread) candle by L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of my favorite cold weather candles. Its rich and slightly smoky aroma is almost identical to L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two perfume. The perfume features the notes of ginger, cinnamon, green anise, honey, and vanilla. Both produce the effect of chai tea or gingerbread latte that’s not syrupy-sweet or cloying. I adore its honeyed smokiness. It conjures up the image of black tea brewing while gingerbread is baking in the oven. It transforms the room into a warm and cozy place where you just want to curl up with a blanket and a good book.