Archive for June, 2006
Marina at Perfume-Smellin’ Things sent me an e-mail about two weeks ago with a dubious subject From Russia With Love. “James Bond?” thought I in hesitation to open it. Turns out she wanted to share the love through perfume (phew!). She came up with a brilliant idea for us to review some of the Russian perfumes by Novaya Zarya. Now, I’m Russian by heritage but I didn’t grow up with Novaya Zarya (except for occasional colognes). I grew up with Dzintars all around me. So imagine my excitement when the package finally arrived. Here’s what I found in there:
Patchouli Magique: bergamot, lemon, patchouli, incense, labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla, musk. Wow, this is good! Lovely patchouli-labdanum mix with amber undertones. Nothing too complex, just very nice and wearable. Beats such patchouli scents as Les Nereides Patchouli Antigue and L’Artisan Patchouli Patch. Not a dirty, raw patchouli. Rather woody, soft.
Melody of Flowers Iris: iris, you say? I say an artifical mixture of unidentified notes. Wah! Get it off me! A rather pungent white floral of some sort. Ghastly. Try as I might, I get no iris. Neither in top nor in base notes. It’s somehow lost in this Melody of Flowers (and I’d like to know what flowers!)
Green Vetiver: vetiver, orange, mandarine, verbena, cedarwood, oakmoss, amber. This is the first time I smell vetiver combined with verbena. Quite unique! Sparkly, citrusy, slightly sweet. Not sure I could wear this. Not earth-shattering vetiver (and certainly not my favorite) but quite decent for what it’s worth. Would make a nice room fragrance.
Carnation: sharp, dirty carnation but not animalic-dirty - dirty as in dirt. I’m getting cloves, too. Spicy! Dries down to soft cloves - I don’t get much carnation any more. For a cologne, it’s unbelievably impressive. Wow! This could be another winner. Just add a few notches to the lasting power, and it’d be perfect. Well, it does kind of just sit on my skin. I guess I want my carnation with all the fixings.
Arome Musque: definitely a floral musk. I’m getting a slight similarity with Iris Poudre minus the iris. I know, I know, nothing can compare with the magnificent Iris Poudre but I swear I’m getting a similar musk note. I’m not bowled over. Maybe because I’m not a pure musk lover. Unless it’s Musc Ravageur, I don’t want to smell it.
Ambre Dore: violet petals, rose, patchouli, coriander, amber, oakmoss. Now we’re talking! I think I love this one the most. Spicy, not too heavy amber. Once again, my nose does tricks on me. This reminds me of Farnesiana, just a bit. Dries down to a soft and slightly powdery amber. Wow! If you’re looking for nice cheap amber, look no further.
Muguet: huh? Lily of the valley? What lily and what valley? If this is what lily of the valley smells like in Russia, then I’m a ballerina. Where’s my dirty laundry - this smells like cheap Soviet soap. I’m getting major nostalgia - memories of hand-washing my underwear with laundry soap. Yeah, right. No, thank you. Honestly, I wish I could say more here but words just escape me - it’s that boring.
Russian Forest: lemon and fresh woods. Believe it or not, I’ve never been in a Russian forest. But I hope it doesn’t smell like this because I get no forest here. It smells like a typical Soviet after-shave my dad used to wear (and drink on occasion - yeah, I know). The drydown is sort of soapy and musky and not very pleasant on my skin.
If any of these interest you, make sure to click on the images - they’ll take you right to the online shops.
Also, remember to check Perfume-Smellin’ Things, Scentzilla, and Perfume Posse to get their take on these perfumes.
June 29th, 2006
Tomorrow Perfume-Smelling’ Things, Perfume Posse, Scentzilla, and Aromascope are undertaking a fun little project called From Russia With Love. Join us as we talk about Russian perfumes that we recently sampled! If you own or remember any Russian scents, we’d love to hear about them!
June 29th, 2006
I’m thrilled to bring you this interview with the nose behind Parfumerie Générale, Pierre Guillaume. But first, his official biography:
Pierre Guillaume was born in 1977. After studying Fine Chemistry, Pierre Guillaume joined the Laboratoire de Formulation Industrielle founded by his father, Christian. Here he worked in the Research and Development department and in particular was involved in the design of speciality products for cosmetics. Fascinated by the artistic expression of Chemistry in the form of Fine Perfumery, he enriched his traditional “Perfumer’s Organ” with a palette of varied ingredients drawn from the worlds of cosmetics and botanical research. Exploring new possibilities, he then applied the techniques and knowhow of industrial chemistry to the work of composing perfumes. Going a step further than the simple manipulation of ingredients in terms of quantity and formulation, he worked on the resulting material itself, and on the interaction of physical factors — light, temperature and ultrasound, to mention just a few. The result was Photo-affinage® or “photo-refining” which creates links between spicy and fruity notes, giving a perfume the “vibrant” character which is a sign of recognition for his creations. When he uses an unusual ingredient, this is solely for the contribution it makes to the olfactive construction of the perfume, not a simple marketing ploy. Today Pierre Guillaume has created 15 fragrances that he formulates in total creative and financial independence in his own workshops. Under the name “Parfumerie Générale,” echoing his own initials and saluting the Alternative Perfumery which he finds so inspiring, his perfumes are identified by a number so that they can be discovered free of any distinction or preconceived classification as men’s or women’s fragrances. PG by Pierre Guillaume is making its mark as an innovating spirit in the world of Perfumery, stimulating it and breaking its rules with invention yet respect. (Copyrights © Pierre Guillaume Parfumeur - February 2005. Marque déposée. N° national 05 3 345 328 www.parfumspierreguillaume.com)
1. How did Parfumerie Générale come about?
The meeting with Mr B., a Swiss businessman and major collector of art and perfumes was the deciding factor… We were introduced at a party and he fell in love with “Cozé” which at that time had been created for the exclusive use of my father and myself … I gave him a bottle and 3 weeks later he called me and dictated his first order: he had introduced the perfume to his circle of friends — businessmen and celebrities from many different fields — and they too had been instantly captivated. The following year saw the addition of female clients, as “Brûlure de Rose” and “Cuir Venenum” were created at his request… Faced with the necessity of designing packaging that didn’t resemble laboratory-type bottles, the choice of 20th century French industrial design immediately seemed to me the obvious solution, like an echo of my initials: “Parfumerie Générale” was born.
2. What is your perfume motto?
“Awakening new emotions…”
3. Are all Parfumerie Générale scents created by you?
To this day all the PGs are the result of my own work, I find it difficult to work as part of a team…However, I do intend to produce creations by young and as yet unknown perfume-makers to help them make their name: I want “Parfumerie Générale” to retain its image as an inventive and innovative company!
4. Have you had any perfume mentors?
I have just one friend in the world of perfume, that’s Francis (Kurkdjian), I also have a great fondness for the work of Alberto Morillas…
5. What are your favorite perfumes?
M7 by YSL, Miss Dior, Shalimar, Fracas……
6. Which of your creations are your favorite?
Always on to the next one …
7. Does Parfumerie Générale plan to export the line to the U.S.?
PG sells to the USA via its internet shop, we do not yet have any sales agreements in place with USA distributors, if a shop wants to work with us it has to be because they’ve fallen madly in love with our products, which is why we don’t go out looking for trade contacts: we want them to come to us.
8. Does your shop have a sample program?
All the perfumes are available in mini-bottles from the internet shop, www.boutique-parfumerie-generale.com
9. Parfumerie Générale perfumes have very unique names. How do you choose names for your creations?
The choice of a name is a difficult task, but also intellectually very stimulating, the important thing is to get across the essential elements of the story of a fragrance, the journey that it takes you on, while retaining a certain poetry and a style which reminds the public that this perfume belongs to a particular Company. Sometimes a name I have thought of has inspired the perfume: this happened with “Jasmin Prédateur” which is coming out in a few months’ time: I wanted a “feline” perfume, the image of a white tiger asleep on a bed of jasmine… revisited!
10. What piece of advice would you give to a perfume lover?
It’s about asking yourself what a perfume contributes to the development of an olfactory family - and about following your heart of course!
June 28th, 2006
Today I’m wearing New Haarlem by Bond No 9, my favorite coffee perfume. There’s a fire drill at work today, and even though I’ve been thoroughly assured it’s really not a big deal, I’m rather antsy. I mean, this is a Chicago highrise, people (plus, I’m supposed to wear a dorky hat). On top of everything, there’s a major thunderstorm approaching. So, I picked New Haarlem for today’s scent because it has everything I need at the moment - bergamot (to rejuvenate), cedarwood (to balance) , coffee (to invigorate), vanilla (to cheer up) , patchouli (to calm), and lavender (to pacify). Life is good.
Image source: www.bondno9fragrances.com
June 28th, 2006
Eau de Gloire is the work of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the founder of Parfum D’Empire. It was created as a perfume ode to Napoleon Bonaparte. Combining perfume and history is the main focus of his other creations as well - Ambre Russe and Eau Suave. Eau de Gloire features the notes of lemon, bergamot, rosemary, orange, neroli, lavender, tea, anise, licorice, leather, tobacco, incense, immortelle, oakmoss, cistus. It’s an intensely dry, aromatic herbal blend. It starts out with a rather citrusy mix of rosemary, orange, and lavender and just a hint of tea. As it settles, the herbal notes mellow, and the tea accord is intensified by anise, leather and tobacco. However, anise and tobacco play secondary roles. The main character is undoubtedly a melange of rosemary, tea, leather, and oakmoss giving the scent a vintage effect. I love the way immortelle is rendered here as a backdrop that holds the composition together. It’s somewhat similar to the immortelle in Annick Goutal Sables, except it’s not sweetened by vanilla. My nose doesn’t detect much incense but the overall effect is quite smoky and dusty and rather masculine in character.
Given the notes, it had to be stunning. Alas, it doesn’t sweep me off my feet. While I appreciate its masterful composition and powerful character, it doesn’t seem to captivate me enough.
Eau de Gloire is available at Aedes and Aus Liebe Zum Duft. For more retailers, check Parfum D’Empire web site.
Image source: www.aedes.com
June 27th, 2006
Today I’m wearing a cult perfume called Luctor et Emergo, created by a hip Dutch fashion house The People of the Labyrinths. It was supposedly nominated as a cult fragrance by Style.com So I asked myself, what does that mean? According to Answers.com, the definition of cult can be either: 1. “A religion or religious sect generally considered to be extremist or false, with its followers often living in an unconventional manner under the guidance of an authoritarian, charismatic leader”; 2. “Obsessive, especially faddish, devotion to or veneration for a person, principle, or thing”, or 3. “An exclusive group of persons sharing an esoteric, usually artistic or intellectual interest”. I don’t know about you but I much prefer the third definition, although, in reality, I probably fall somewhere in between the second and the third.
According to the People of the Labyrinths web site, “The search for the right combination took three years. The result is a blending together of different scents into one daring, unmistakeably personal bouquet of fresh grasses, various white flowers, vanilla and precious woods without losing the characteristics of each component.” Rather vague, I’d say. My nose detects soft incense on the woodsy base of vanilla with just a hint of almond and cherry. On popular online fragrance communities, the scent has been fondly labeled as POTL (People of the Labyrinths abbreviated) and extensively compared to the smell of play-doh. Play-doh wasn’t my childhood friend, so I can’t relate to this association. It does, however, have a somewhat foody smell which to my nose is more along the lines of marzipan or cherry cough syrup (which I guess isn’t foody but it depends on how you look at it). You either love it or hate it (both with a passion). There’s no in-between. I happen to love it because, you know, I belong to that exclusive group of persons sharing an esoteric, artistic interest.
Luctor et Emergo comes in parfum, eau de toilette, and body cream (heavenly!) and can be purchased from Beautyhabit, Luckyscent, Lusciouscargo or directly from the POTL online shop.
Image source: www.the.people.of.the.labyrinths.nl
June 27th, 2006
Thé et Pain d’Épices (Tea and Gingerbread) candle by L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of my favorite cold weather candles. Its rich and slightly smoky aroma is almost identical to L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two perfume. The perfume features the notes of ginger, cinnamon, green anise, honey, and vanilla. Both produce the effect of chai tea or gingerbread latte that’s not syrupy-sweet or cloying. I adore its honeyed smokiness. It conjures up the image of black tea brewing while gingerbread is baking in the oven. It transforms the room into a warm and cozy place where you just want to curl up with a blanket and a good book.
L’Artisan candles have one of the best throws. The aroma envelopes the room and lingers for hours.
The candle is available at Luckyscent, Aedes as well as L’Artisan Parfumeur online shop.
Image source: www.luckyscent.com
June 27th, 2006
Today I’m wearing Bois Farine by L’Artisan Parfumeur. It’s created by Jean Claude Ellena (who I’d most certainly marry were we both single), one of my favorite perfumers. To view his other creations, check the Noses page on Now Smell This. Here’s the background information on the scent, from the L’Artisan web site, “Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, perfume composer of great talent and international fame, Bois Farine (Wood Flour) is the product of his encounter with a magic tree in the Reunion Islands. Here, in a forest known as the coloured wood forest, surrounded by evocatively named trees , red wood, yellow wood, iron wood and milk wood, he unexpectedly discovered the fragrant white tree - a rare and nowadays protected species, reputed to have magical powers. This tree is specific to Reunion Island and its red flower smells like flour. Bois Farine is a single and unique fragrance, a magical union between witch wood and flower powder … As rich and fresh as flour rain.” I love that description - flour rain. Something you wouldn’t want to happen if it was wheat flour, in real life or in perfume. However, this is woodsy flour - a whole bunch of wood crushed to powder, mixed with the magical flower of Ruizia Cordata, fennel seed, and white iris. The effect is a milky, woodsy balm. Slightly powdery, slightly creamy. Bois Farine has been compared to both peanut butter and the famous chocolate-hazelnut spread Nutella (in my case). I adore it and could never be without it.
Bois Farine can be purchased at Beauty Cafe, Aedes, Barney’s New York as well as directly from the L’Artisan online shop.
Image source: www.lartisanparfumeur.com
June 26th, 2006
Our last week’s Favorite Summer Scents posts are done, and it’s just occurred to me that I completely overlooked another perfect contestant for the Favorite Summer Leather nomination, and that contestant is Baladin. The scent is created by Patricia de Nicolai, the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain and Jean-Paul Guerlain’s apprentice who created her own line of niche perfumes - Parfums de Nicolai. Her creations are marked by excellent quality and a particular complexity that I’d describe as inoffensive, airy, weightless. When I say weightless, I’m not referring to their lasting power. I’m talking about the effect on the skin. I’ve been familiar with the line for a couple of years now but only recently have come to realize it’s sort of underrated and is certainly worth perusing (which I intend to do in future posts).
Baladin is created as a men’s scent. However, all of Patricia de Nicolai’s masculine creations could be used as excellent evidence against the popular belief that perfumes should be differentiated by gender. She’s a master of genderlessness. In spite of using typically masculine notes, the overall impression is very unisex.
Baladin is described as a leather scent but it’s not predominantly leather. In fact, it could very well be nominated as my Favorite Summer Herbal or Favorite Summer Vetiver, for that matter. It features the notes of thyme and tarragon on a leather-vetiver base with just a hint of birch-tree essence. All of these notes if not blended masterfully, could come across as rather sharp and brazen. However, it’s not the case with Baladin. The scent brings out just a touch of each note, it seems, producing a soft, woody-earthy blend.
Baladin can be purchased from Beautyhabit and Aus Liebe Zum Duft. For other retailers, please check Patricia de Nicolai site.
Image source: www.beautyhabit.com
June 25th, 2006
In June 19 issue of New York Magazine in the “Ask A Shop Clerk” section there’s an article interviewing a shop clerk at CB I Hate Perfume. You can read it here.
June 23rd, 2006
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